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Thursday, 22 November 2007

Ciudad Perdida


I just spent an exhausting 5 days trekking in the Sierra Nevada region, out to visit Ciudad Perdida, also known as the Lost City.

We had a great group of people with mixed nationality: Poland, Denmark, Canada, Walse and NZ. :) We also had 2 guides and 1 cook from the tour operator Sierra Tour.

The condition of the trek was wet, muddy and slippery. This is the rainy season we are trekking in so every afternoon except for the last day we experience a torrential downpour. And on our very first trekking day half the group ended up having their contents entirely soaked through. I took a great picture of Matt, the Walsh, with his Lonelyplanet Phrasebook and Colombian Pesos on the table, attempting to dry them out. But basically the unlucky ones were trekking in their wet clothes for most of the time.


There were also numerous river crossing, and some the water came up to our waist. Being in a hurry I manage to trip and fall into the rushing water, taking my guide Eduardo with me. Therefore I am greatful to have double line all my clothes in two bin bags, and had everything else like camera and torch light wrapped in plastic bags.

However the rain did more damage then we anticipated, as we had to return the way we came in, and on the last day we must have passed at least 30 avalanches, completely blocking our way out. It was through much cussing and groaning that we eventually got out to a point where motorbikes can cross, to return us to civilization!


So was it all worth it in the end? The answer is yes! The Lost City is pretty well situated, at the banks of the river, up the hill, and overlooking a lush green valley, with Tulcans seen flying above.

We eventually reach it on the third day of our trek, after enduring endless mosquitos and sandflies, torrential rains and muds, we climb the 1200 stone stairs all the way up to see the "city" of a long lost civilization (wiped out by the invading Spanish of course). With the fog flowing in and out of Ciudad Perdida it did remind me a little of Machu Picchu, as it has that same mystic air to it. But the difference is the complete lack of tourist.


The following day we hiked around the ruins, seeing the remains of these stone structures, and tools used by the civilization then. The city was believe to have been founded in 800 AD, and may have contain up to 8,000 inhabitants. We also saw a Helicopter landing on the main terrace, carrying 3 American tourist whom paid 3000USD for the privilage.

In 2003 eight backpackers were kidnapped from here by the Paramilitary ELN and held for 90 days. They were luckily released unharm, but it put people off doing this trek for a number of years. Today there are 40 millitery personal located in the Lost City to protect tourist from visiting it.

2 comments:

ultimatetraveler said...

I think I know one of those three you saw in the helicopter. He's an American tour operator who was on a scouting trip. I had dinner with him three weeks later in Cannes. He said it was the first time a helicopter had been there in five years. I want to go!

Ben Woo said...

No kidding! I guess for some people money is no objective! It would have been fantastic to see the lost city from the air!

But to really appretiate it, you should hike in like the rest of us. :)