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Wednesday, 28 November 2007

Venezuela and it's corrupt police

Hi all,

I just want to let you know that I have entered Venezuela safely. But not without problems.

I got up at 5.30am this morning, and caught the 6am bus out of Bucaramanga. The journey to the border was uneventful. I arrive at the border at 12pm, but then getting out of Colombian immigration was a 2 1/2 hours wait. It took forever, so I was glad to have eaten lunch beforehand.

I finally made it into the Venezuela border at 3.30pm, I was running behind time already, as I had another 8 1/2 hours bus rides (and needing to change bus midway) ahead of me.

Everything was fine, until my van got pulled over at the police check point leaving town. The police picked on me as soon as I came out. Demanding my backpacks to be x-rayed and searched. The fact that my backpacks was x-rayed at the border didn't seem to satisfy them. The police woman that scrutinize my passport was very rude, but as I later discover, at least honest. Because afterwards, her and a young male colleague went through my backpack and daypack. They were very thorough, pulling out every bit of item from both packs. All my clothes were search, my books opened, my toilet bag, medical bag, pill box, pencil case was scrutinized.

I notice only my items were all pulled out, and thrown on the counter like junk. Where-as the locals only had their bags quickly look through.

Then I notice the young police man was eye-ing my iPod, asking me what it was, and then pulling it out to play with it on two occasion. At first I thought it was curiosity and a touch of childishness (boyz toyz and all!), but then...

The lady finished with her search and left my contents in a mess, and I had the task of putting everything back. I was feeling pretty angry at the way my possession were thrown out, not in any order, nor were there any help given in putting them back. Never had I seen such rudeness or carelessness.

So I pack everything away in my backpack, whilst eye-ing the young policeman wearily, as he was *still* looking through my now thoroughly searched daypack.

He then told me I had to be body search. I started to panic, as I remember the owner of the guesthouse I stayed at in San Gil telling me that they are after money. I said "No no no", but he said this is standard procedure. I didn't have a choice anyway so I was taken into a private room.

Inside the room, he first told me to hand all my possessions in my pants over. So there goes my wallet. But afterwards he wanted me to drop my pants for the money belt that he knew was there. I resisted of course! But he would not hear of it. He then went through the contents, and started pulling out my USDs (US Dollars). I was really shitting myself then.

I know there are no official rules in which foreigners are not allow to bring USDs into the country. But I also know the official exchange rate for 1 USD = 2060 Venezuelan Bolivians, whilst in the black market un-official rate is up to 6000 Bolivians. Almost 3 times as much!

So I started demanding my money back. In fact, I pulled the dollars out of his hands, and place them back into my money belt, whilst talking rapidly and loudly to him about this being my first day in Venezuela, that NZ has no problems with Venezuela, that the USDs are for my travels in all of South America, and that my friends had warn me about policemen taking people's money away. Of course I don't think he understood half of what I was trying to say, I was panic-ing and speaking Spanglish. He was trying to get me to pay him off, whilst trying to hush me with his finger to his lips. He kept gesturing towards the money and speaking rapidly in Spanish but I could not understand him. Maybe not speaking too much Spanish may have helped me in this sticky situation.

As after putting my clothes back on, and storing my money belt away I basically took my chance and walked out the room. I pretended to check to see if my van was still waiting outside. He told me to wait, and spoke to whom I thought was his senior officer, he was whispering to the guy as if saying "This guy is loaded with USDs!" and what seem to me to be like working out a bargain between them to get my money. I look on pleadingly. The senior officer - God bless him, must have said something like "Let him go.", as the next moment he was nodding towards me. I took that as a sign and fled to the van with my backpack and daypack.

I am still shaking from this whole experience which only happened 3 hours ago, and cannot stop rewinding in my head what could have had happen. Never in any of my previous travels have I encountered such corrupted police. And I am praying that I do not meet any more such people.

Colombia Most Wanted


This is the to 3 most wanted Colombians. The photo was taken at the DAS immigration office on my way out of Colombia.

$5,000,000,000 pesos = 2.5 million USD


Here is more! Notice how some has their face crossed off with MUERTO written? Yup that's right they got him.

These guys all looks to be part of the paramilitary here in Colombia.

Speaking of paramilitary. Here is an interesting news article on the Guardian website, with regards to a 29 years old Dutch woman name Eillen, whom have been fighting on FARC's side since 2001. Recently her diary was recovered by Government soldiers, and within it she tells of her life with the communist rebels.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/colombia/story/0,,2216994,00.html

Crossing the border into Venezuela


Made it into Venezuela... This photo was taken before encountering the shit head corrupt policemen. :o)

Tuesday, 27 November 2007

San Gil, Bucaramanga and beyond!


I have been visiting the self proclaim adventure capital of Colombia; San Gil, near the border with Venezuela.

I came here to absail down this huge 180 metres waterfall! It look big too when we got there! However we found out that only one section is possible to absail. That section is 80 metres long so it still look huge, dangerous and exciting!


Well, going down has never been a problem for me, so me and another kiwi (Andy Gale from Hamiltron!), work our way down the face of the waterfall, into the thick of it all. It was exciting stuff allright! The rock was slippery and I was reduce to jumping down it McGyver style. :)

Here are the photos! The one above is of Andy going over. The one on the left is the 80 metre section that we went down. If you zoom in to the photo you will be able to see the ropes we used to absail.

Today I am in Bucaramanga, basically my last stop in Colombia, before heading into Venezuela.

Colombia has set the bench mark for me in terms of my favorite country in this continent. The people, the landscape and the adventures have been all top stuff. The only low point would be in their culinary!

Sunday, 25 November 2007

Taganga


Taganga Fishing Port
Originally uploaded by benwoo
I love Taganga. Stayed here for a few nights, in between my trek into Ciudad Perdida.

This is a small fishing on the Caribbean coast with a great backpacker atmosphere. There are no 5 star hotels out here, just a beach with a bunch of restaurant selling cheap seafood.

I spent my time snorkling off the coast, eating great seafood (snapper and prawns!) and just chilling on a hammock.

Thursday, 22 November 2007

The People


And here are photos of the people including the group at the Lost City trek.

Here is a Koguis mum, at 15 year old with her son.





Here is a Koguis girl showing off her colourful necklace.

To tell the difference between the girls and the boys is that the boys all carry a knapsack, whilst the girls all wear pretty necklaces.









Here are two Koguis boys, no older then 12 and 14, having a fag during a break up on the trek. They told me they started smoking at a tender age of 11.







Wh00p Wh00p! Yeah mate, I would have look so much better possing if it wasn't for them German style socks and sandles. But I did the whole bloody trek in sandles! They were PERFECT for the numerous muddy and wet trails. That is, until the last day when we had to slug through avalanches. My poor Tevas just couldn't handle them.

Anyway.... RAH RAH!!!





From the left is Missile our cook, Eduardo our English speaking guide and the younger Eduardo Spanish speaking guide possing with their Galil rifles...

RAH RAH!!!



Here is my group on the trek having breakfast. From the right we have Matt (Walsh), Olga (Polish), Karen (Walsh), Christine (Canadian), Jordan (Canadian), yours truely and Sef (Denish).





This is our brilliant guide Eduardo, with his mum and dad. We stayed at his house on the first night of the trek. Eduardo is strong as an ox and nimble as a deer during our trek. He helped carried Christine's backpack when she was too tired, and knows the trail, the animals, the plant life like a native. During the trek he picked out sugarcane, mandarin, oranges, choclate growing along the path and cut it up for us. Eduardo is only 19 years old, but has been guiding for 3 years and was a cook for 5 years before that. His dad is 52 and his mum is only 49. He also has 5 brothers and 2 sisters.

Ciudad Perdida


I just spent an exhausting 5 days trekking in the Sierra Nevada region, out to visit Ciudad Perdida, also known as the Lost City.

We had a great group of people with mixed nationality: Poland, Denmark, Canada, Walse and NZ. :) We also had 2 guides and 1 cook from the tour operator Sierra Tour.

The condition of the trek was wet, muddy and slippery. This is the rainy season we are trekking in so every afternoon except for the last day we experience a torrential downpour. And on our very first trekking day half the group ended up having their contents entirely soaked through. I took a great picture of Matt, the Walsh, with his Lonelyplanet Phrasebook and Colombian Pesos on the table, attempting to dry them out. But basically the unlucky ones were trekking in their wet clothes for most of the time.


There were also numerous river crossing, and some the water came up to our waist. Being in a hurry I manage to trip and fall into the rushing water, taking my guide Eduardo with me. Therefore I am greatful to have double line all my clothes in two bin bags, and had everything else like camera and torch light wrapped in plastic bags.

However the rain did more damage then we anticipated, as we had to return the way we came in, and on the last day we must have passed at least 30 avalanches, completely blocking our way out. It was through much cussing and groaning that we eventually got out to a point where motorbikes can cross, to return us to civilization!


So was it all worth it in the end? The answer is yes! The Lost City is pretty well situated, at the banks of the river, up the hill, and overlooking a lush green valley, with Tulcans seen flying above.

We eventually reach it on the third day of our trek, after enduring endless mosquitos and sandflies, torrential rains and muds, we climb the 1200 stone stairs all the way up to see the "city" of a long lost civilization (wiped out by the invading Spanish of course). With the fog flowing in and out of Ciudad Perdida it did remind me a little of Machu Picchu, as it has that same mystic air to it. But the difference is the complete lack of tourist.


The following day we hiked around the ruins, seeing the remains of these stone structures, and tools used by the civilization then. The city was believe to have been founded in 800 AD, and may have contain up to 8,000 inhabitants. We also saw a Helicopter landing on the main terrace, carrying 3 American tourist whom paid 3000USD for the privilage.

In 2003 eight backpackers were kidnapped from here by the Paramilitary ELN and held for 90 days. They were luckily released unharm, but it put people off doing this trek for a number of years. Today there are 40 millitery personal located in the Lost City to protect tourist from visiting it.

Thursday, 15 November 2007

Did you know...?

That the very popular TV series and Emmy award winner "Ugly Betty", is originally from Colombia? Yes! The series here is known as "Yo Soy Betty, La Fea" (I am Betty, The Ugly One).

Also, the very beautiful singer Shakira, is also from Colombia.

I loooove Colombia! :o)

Wednesday, 14 November 2007

Mud Volcano of Totumo


Eeek! Covered from head to toes in muddy slimy goo. It was great fun!

Today, I headed out to the mud volcano of Totumo. About 40km from Cartegena. It was an interesting day trip as the photo shows. Once there, the group I was in don on our togs, climb the steps up the 20 metre cone, and step into this slimy gooey mud. The sensation is wonderful! I felt like a kid again, playing with mud, rubbing it all over myself, making it burp and fart around me.


The coolest thing about this stuff is that it is simply un-sinkable! I was litrally lying down on the mud, dozing off in the mid afternoon heat. Other folks around me were getting a nice full body mud massage by the locals.

After the experience, we climb back down the ladder and were lead to a pond, to be wash down by the local ladies. They did a very good job with cleaning me and my togs (off!).

But now as I type this, I am picking at my ears to find more black goo stuck to my finger nails!

Tuesday, 13 November 2007

I made it to the Carribean coast!

I made it!!! Starting from Chile, I have travelled by bus, boat and 4WD all the way from Chile, the southern most country in South America, to Cartagena, up here in the Carribean coast. It has taken just over 4 months, and from here I plan to cross over to Venezuela, before heading South to Argentina to complete my travels. :)

Cartagena


I am in Cartagena now! This picture doesn't really reflect the city, but to remind people that in South America there are many poor and homeless people.

This city is probably the most famous city in all of Colombia. It is famous because it is one of the few cities left in the world with an intact wall to protect the city. It was built way back in Colonial times (1600's) the Spanish was force to build this defence after repeated attack by pirates off shore. The city is famous then as a trading post, and was a key departure point for Spanish loot of the region.

So within the wall city, most streets retains their colonial charm, with beautiful churches, monastries and other beautiful buildings. It certainly is the prettiest Colonial city I have visited in my trip so far!

Botero statue


This is a piss take on Botero, the most famous artist in Colombia. Found at Cartegena's Independence festival this weekend.


And this here is the real Botero statue!

Frenando Botero as you may have notice is famous for his work with regards to fat-ness. This is seen in his museum in Medellin and Bogota. His art work includes sculptures and paintings. It is very interesting to see how he potray all his subjects, from dogs, fruit plates to people, in a "fat" form.

For more information on Botero and hiswork, check out Wikipedia and Museum Syndicate.

Friday, 9 November 2007

Colombian toilet


Why aren't there toilet seat covers in Colombia and the rest of South America? Is it because everybody carries their own due to hygine purposes? Or that they are afraid that customers might steal it???

Other questions I have:

Why do drivers turn on their hazard light signals whilst driving in the rain?

Why do women get butt implants? Is it to make them hang out more?

Why do people use their mobile like a walkie talkie? That they would first listen to the conversation, and then remove the phone from their ears, place it by their mouth and speak into it.

Guitar AK47


This is interesting photo was taken at the Museo de Antioquia here in Medellin. The artist converted an AK-47 into a guitar. According to the plaque it is a statement against violence.

For those who din't know, Medellin used to be the drug capital of the world. It was one of the most dangerous cities in the world due to the various gangs and drug cartels. And it is here, not so long ago, that an average 6,000 people died from homicides back in 1991.

But with a new mayor and his iron fist, the city has clean up. homicides rate dropped significantly. The drug cartels destroyed and as everyone saw on the news back in 1993, it's most famous convict Pablo Escobar, was shot and killed on the roof top right here in Medellin.

I LOVE CRACK!


Crack climbing that is!

This is what I did today!!! :) :) :)

I finally got to do some real climbing after a long break. Today, Laird (my Canadian mate) and I went rock climbing at El Peñol, a massive piece of granite rock, judding out of the countryside, 2 hours East of Medellin.


We started off with a long 30m climb, graded at 5.8 and called the Kurakata. The climb was a good warm up, and it was also Laird's first outdoor climbing experience and kodus to him as he top it!

This photo is taken for a climb called Alcatraz, rated at 5.10B and is 25m high. It is my first proper crack climb, as you can see from the photo, the jagged age goes all the way up. In fact, the whole route is 80 metres, requiring 3 multipitch climb. It would have been so cool to do the whole thing!


Just Check out the view!

El Peñol is situated in a very pretty area, surrounded by lakes and beautiful countryside. Many rich folks from the big city of Medellin have bought holiday houses out here. As you can see their houses, and the occasional speed boats out on the water. I certainly cannot complain about the view, nor the beautiful climb.


And finally, here is our guide: Yon Monsalve. He is a 31 year old Colombian from Medellin and has been climbing for 12 years. He is a great climber, and have set 3 of the 4 routes we climbed today.

He has had first hand experience with Colombian's war with the rebels. He got shot on the back of his shoulder, with the bullet piercing his left shoulder, and busting his jaw. So now he has a slightly crooked jaw. The shot put him in a coma for 2 days. This happened to him at the age of 17, whilst he was in the Colombian army.

Tuesday, 6 November 2007

The Bullring

This is the bullfight ring in Bogota. It is interesting to see from above (taken from a tall tower near by) as you can see the massive holding pens for the bulls.

Bullfighting is big in South America, after being introduced from Spain. At the start of the bullfighting season the top matadors are invited over from Spain to participate. Unfortunately I won´t be seeing it in Bogota as the season starts in December.


Monday, 5 November 2007

Big Mac Combo - Colombia

Big Mac Combo cost 9,600 Pesos = 4.90USD

I love Colombians!

So far I am loving Colombia. This is due mainly to the lovely people that lives here. It is on an almost daily basis that I am met with kindness by the locals.

An example was yesterday when I wanted to take a cable car up to a nearby hill for a view of the city, but I am short on cash, so the woman in the queue behind me offered to pay the differences!

Another time, I was in a bus, and because I didn´t know how to get to my destination, friendly locals would stay on the bus with me to help me get off at the right place, even if it meant they miss their stop!I have also been offered fruits to tried by locals, whether they are farmers or city person.

But of course, currently being in the capital of Colombia (Bogota) I am well aware that this city has the worst reputation of robery then any other cities I have visited so far. In fact, I have heard so many first and second hand stories that it would make any person become overly paranoid.

Yesterday I met Tim, a Dutch backpacker who caught came directly from Quito, Ecuador. Whilst on the bus, he was drugged by a co-passanger, ended up passing out and waking up in a hospital the following day! How freaky is that! But then again, he was stupid as he took drinks from strangers onboard the bus, his whiskey was laced with drugs. However there was a happy ending as the rest of the passangers on the bus notice what was happening and manage to catch the perpetrator, who is now sitting in a Bogota jail cell.

I have also heard countless stories of arm robberies, sometimes in daylight. One was a guy who had robbers robbing him with guns right in the middle of Simon Boliviar square, the main presidential square of Bogota! Another story was of a girl who got a knife held on to her outside Platypus, my hostel in Bogota. Dodgy!

So there are good people and there are bad people. But overrall, I have yet to meet the baddies. And dispite Bogota´s bad rep, I found it safer walking the streets here then in Quito (Ecuador)!

Sunday, 4 November 2007

Flash flood in Bogota

Today I got to witness the extreme wet weather here in Bogota.

It rain heavily in the afternoon and in less then 30 minutes, the water level rise above the curbs and the roads turned into a mini river. It was a little scary but fascinating to watch as I was stuck in a bus on my way North. And soon after it started hailing hard! This lasted almost an hour, drowning the roads and cars with white pebbles, so by the end of it Bogota looked like it was in the middle of a snowy white Christmas!

But if you think my photos did not look too bad, check out "El Tiempo" (The Time) the daily newspaper of Bogota. It has an article and an incredible photo of the flood and damages caused by the storm.

Friday, 2 November 2007

Tierradentro and it´s underground tombs

After San Agustin, I visited another UNESCO World Heritage Site at Tierradentro. This area is even less visited then San Agustin due partly to the road condition.

Tierradentro contains the only known underground tombs in Latin America. They are believe to date between the 6th and 10th Century. Most of them are decorated with motif and painted with 3 basic colours (black, red and white). Again not a lot are known about the people who built them nor the tombs themselves. But many items were found in the tombs alongside the bodies, these included statues similar to those seen in San Agustin. All the tombs are built high up in the hills surrounding Tierradentro.

For me and Nicolas (my Belgium companion), the village and hills in this area are more interesting then the tombs themselves. We enjoyed hiking the hills to visit the ruins, chilling in the tiny village (of 15 houses!) sipping our juice and having the whole place to ourselves!

For more information go to UNESCO World Heritage Site on Tierradentro.

San Agustin and it´s facinating Stone faces

I recently spent 3 days in San Agustin, a town in the South of Colombia.

I came to see these fantastic ruins which was found only in the 1970´s. And up until recently, the whole area were not visited by travelers due to active guerrilla activities. But it is now safe for visiting. There are more then 500 stone statues to be viewed. Most in human shape, but some in animal shape, such as a bird holding it´s pray - a snake in it´s beak. Some of the statues were preserved in a perfect state, including the colours used!

The site is pretty big, spread out over the countryside, so on the second day me and 2 other backpackers rented horses to take us along spectacular scenary to visit some of these sites.

Very little is known about the culture surrounding these ruins. But they were believe to have been scultured by the Andean people between the 1st to 8th Century.

For more information, check the UNESCO World Heritage Site for San Agustin.


Salento

I have spent the last few days staying at a hostel call the "Plantation House" at Salento, in the coffee growing region in Colombia. This area like the South of Colombia is lush, green surrounded by rolling hills. I came here to relax, visit coffee plantations and do some hike around the area. However October and November is the rainy season, so I have been wet more then once.

Yesterday I went hiking to see the world's tallest palm tree, known as the Wax Palm. It is impressive all right, reaching up to 70 metres they outgrow everything around them.

But by the time we got back to town we were all pretty soaked. This weather according to Tim the owner of our hostel, is the wettest of the wet season he has seen in the 4 years he has lived here!

Thanks for checking Marcus - I am still alive, it is just that fast Internet haven't been easy to come by in the small towns that I have been visiting, so will post more updates and pictures when I get to Bogota for the weekend! :)